2023 Is The Year of Martine Rose

A deep look at history of Britain’s leading fashion brand.

Hot on the heels of her triumphant SS24 menswear show, Martine Rose is poised to dominate the fashion industry this year. Through her eponymous label, Rose has been making waves in the industry for over a decade. With her unique approach that blurs gender lines and combines streetwear with various other niches such as rave and punk, she has captured the attention of fashion enthusiasts and industry insiders alike. In 2023, all eyes are on Martine Rose as she sets out to redefine the contemporary British fashion landscape and solidify her legacy.

Born in Croydon in 1980, Rose spent most of her time with her grandma in Tooting due to the busy schedules of her nurse mother and accountant father. From a young age, Rose's British-Jamaican cousins introduced her to reggae, dance music, and even punk. She attributes her Jamaican upbringing as one of the major influences on her design attitude. After spending a year at Camberwell College of Arts, she pursued further studies at Middlesex University and soon after graduating in 2002, she became a lecturer. Within three years of completing her studies, Rose, along with her then-best friend Tamara Rothstein, launched the label LMNOP. During the three-year term of the label, Rose honed her process and gained a deep understanding of the fashion industry.

Rose's signature style pays homage to various "outsider" communities, stating, "Fashion is about outsiders, and I’ve always been attracted to outsiders, alternative people." Many of her runway shows reflect this, with her most recent one taking place at the St Joseph's Parish Centre, in her home turf of North London. Her designs often incorporate unexpected materials and challenge gender stereotypes, as she explains, "I love playing with gender lines, I think it’s sexy and it’s a real proposition – it’s not a gimmick." Like most of her collections, SS24 featured numerous collaborations, including members of Fantastic Toiles such as Pig Ignorant and Yaz XL, and even offered a preview of her upcoming Clark's collection.

Already this year, Rose has collaborated with Stussy on a collection inspired by cars and has been named Clark's first-ever guest creative director. This follows her previous appointment as a consultant to Demna's Balenciaga and various collaborations with brands such as To**mmy Hilfige**r and Napapijri. Her SS24 collection also presented another perspective of her highly sought-after Nike Shox-mules hybrid. Additionally, Rose holds a deep passion for music, as evidenced by her collaboration with Kendrick Lamar on his Grammy outfit and receiving a cosign from Skepta for the Louis Vuitton job. She also worked with Drake on her virtual housing block during the pandemic and paid homage to rave flyers of the '90s in her SS22 collection, further emphasizing her commitment to both fashion and music.

Rose's work transcends the fashion industry, leaving a deep impact not only culturally but also socially. Her designs serve as a stimulus for conversation around societal norms and breaking down stereotypes related to identity, diversity, and inclusion. Through her runway shows and campaigns, she actively advocates for body positivity by showcasing models of various sizes, ages, and ethnic backgrounds. Furthermore, she utilizes her influential platform to address pressing social issues like homophobia and racism. One notable example is her choice of venue for shows, such as the Vauxhall Railway Arch, formerly home to the infamous gay sauna 'Chariots'.

Throughout her career, particularly in the latter part, Rose has garnered numerous prestigious awards and prizes for her exceptional talent and valuable contributions. She had previously emerged victorious with the BFC Newgen award, and in 2019, she received nominations for both the BFC’s Menswear Designer of the Year and the Urban Lux Award, affirming her status as a groundbreaking figure in the industry. Furthermore, her remarkable achievements have been showcased in well-known publications such as i-D, 032c, and The Face.

Martine Rose is set to dominate the fashion industry in 2023 with her groundbreaking approach that blurs gender lines and combines streetwear with diverse subcultures. Her designs challenge societal norms and advocate for diversity, inclusion, and body positivity. With prestigious awards and collaborations with renowned brands and artists, Rose has solidified her status as a groundbreaking figure. She has left an unforgettable mark on the fashion world, shaping its future with her exceptional talent and influential platform.